If you want to see what Samos looked like before tourism changed the Mediterranean landscape, getting there takes a bit of work. You have to brave the drive up to Manolates. About 19 kilometers from Samos town, there is a junction that looks harmless enough. But the moment you turn, you are on a steep, six-kilometer climb filled with sharp twists, turns, and sheer drops. Once the road levels out and you see the village, though, the stressful drive is instantly forgotten.
The town is nestled in a massive, ancient forest, and the weather changes the minute you arrive. The air cools down immediately, carrying the scent of pine and wild herbs. For anyone looking to escape the muggy heat of the beach, the dense canopy provides instant relief.
Ditching the car for cobblestones
The moment you pull into the parking lot at the entrance, time slows down. Manolates is a maze of incredibly narrow cobblestone alleys where cars can’t fit, leaving you to explore entirely on foot. The architecture is stunning in an elegant, old-world way. You will walk past sturdy stone houses built long ago to endure harsh mountain winters. You will find hidden gardens tucked between buildings, and balconies packed with blooming geraniums.
The village features taverns serving authentic, slow-cooked meals, alongside small cafés where you can sit and enjoy your coffee all day long.
Trails through the canopy
If sitting around the village feels like missing out on the afternoon, the surrounding area is a massive playground for hikers. An elaborate network of old dirt roads and traditional mule paths cuts right through the lush greenery.
As you walk these paths, the contrast is incredible – one minute you are trekking through a dense forest that feels completely cut off from the rest of Greece, and the next, you catch glimpses of the deep blue Aegean Sea thousands of feet below. This is easily one of the most pristine parts of the island, and it is well worth the effort it takes to get there.